Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Day 38 Queenstown to Mt Cook National Park


Day 38 Queenstown to Mt Cook National Park

Another lovely breakfast overlooking the lake and we packed up for the drive to Mt Cook National Park.  We had a great view of Mt Cook from the West Coast, but today we are approaching from the southeast….where the base camp for the climb to the summit is located.

Instead of lupins, the road out of Queenstown is lined with flax, ‘Pampas’ grass, yellow-flowering gorse and the white flowers of menuca….which bees use to make the special honey that sells for £25 a jar…We crossed the Shotover River – where the Queenstown jetboats go – and drove up to the world’s first ever bungy.  One member of our group did this bungy yesterday….way too scary for me – and he said he had a headache all day from bouncing upside down.  We watched one petrified young lady make the jump – she did not look like she wanted to do it, forgot to dive head first and was yanked upside down, screaming the whole time…..no, thanks….

We drove through the Gibston Valley wine region – if I’d been driving, we would have shopped at the very inviting ‘Winery and Cheesery’, though perhaps it was a bit early… There were also cherry orchards, sheep and cattle ranches….It is impossible to name all the different shades of green….but as we then began to follow the Kawarau Gorge, the vegetation became scrub and we entered the historic goldmining area….Again, if I’d been driving, I would have stopped to look at the buildings and equipment, including a ‘flying fox’ just abandoned when the gold ran out.

We passed through Cromwell with its huge fruit sculpture – and ‘Wooing Tree’ where the goldminers would take their women to propose – and the tiny newtown of Tarras – built as a temporary town when the Lake Dunstan hydroelectric scheme was built. (The old town is at the bottom of the lake.) and now a major centre for merino wool…particularly the Icebreaker brand of clothing.

We drove over the Lindis Pass and had a quick stop in Omarama….unfortunately missing the rodeo, which took place yesterday…..We passed another lake formed by a hydroelectric scheme that has been designed as a competition rowing lake.  (This is why New Zealand rowers win so many medals…) and finally stopped for lunch at a garden café in Twizels. 

After lunch, we drove the last bit to Mt Cook National Park and began with an hour-long hike up to the Blue Tarns (They are actually green…) with floating icebergs at a glacier terminal.  We then did another hike – this one 3 hours - up the Hooker Valley….The walk was much more gentle than our recent walks except that the wind was about 40mph, blowing us off the track, and there were three high suspension bridges over the river on the way to the terminal lake and another glacier.  This was one of my favourite walks of the trip….much less ‘up’ and some great views…another rare plant for our collection, too – the Mt Cook lily only grows in this one valley…it has leaves like lily pads and a daisy-like flower.

A much-needed shower in our alpine lodge hotel and off we went to dinner at Sir Edmund Hillary’s favourite mountaineering bar and restaurant.  The décor was historical mountaineer…(I’m sure my dad had skis like those…) but the food was good…and there were views of Mt Cook and surrounding peaks out the double story floor to ceiling window.

With all that walking and a good meal, we collapsed into bed and fell almost immediately to sleep.

 

Sunday, 28 December 2014

Day 37 Queenstown


Day 37 Queenstown

Having gone to bed early and exhausted yesterday, we were up at 8 and ready to go….of course it was the one day on this section of the trip that we didn’t need to get up at all! Anyway, we had a lovely breakfast overlooking the lake with the mountains in the background and then found a walking trail through the forest into town….  We went first to the Kiwi Birdlife Park – arriving just in time for the kiwi feeding and talk at 10…perfect timing to see the curious little creatures – actually a bit bigger than we thought…and almost mammal-like with whiskers, bone marrow and furry-looking feathers.  We also saw the various kinds of native parakeets, ducks and – with some persistence – the wekas.  The other star of the park is a reptile….the tuatara - - a 200 million year old species – possibly the only remaining reptile from the time of the dinosaurs and that lives to be 200 years old…very cool….  There was an excellent ‘conservation’ show and explanation of the breeding and release programmes undertaken by the trust that runs the park.  It wasn’t inexpensive but they receive no government funding and profit is put into further conservation…so it is well worth the entrance fee.  They made the point that one of the best things that tourists could do to help endangered species was to buy possum-fur products….to encourage the trapping of possums, introduced from Australia, deadly for all native land-based species and running rampant through both North and South Islands.

We walked from the park down into the town, exploring a few of the touristy streets (a queue for ‘Fergburgers’, sales in the mountain sport shops, ever more effusive advertisements for bungee jumping, skydiving, 4x4 safaris and dozens of other ways to maim or kill yourself and all at a stupidly high price)….got a coffee at a café in the Queenstown mall and sat in the shade near the lakeside beach watching the gondolas and paragliders behind us and jetboats, pedalos, sailboats, swimmers (oooh..cold!) and steamboat enjoying the lake.  We strolled along the harbourside and found the underwater observatory where the trout, salmon, diving ducks and New Zealand long-finned eel obligingly put on a show for us.
We had a late lunch/early dinner at Hell Pizza….Rob had a ‘lust’ pizza and I had ‘Purgatory’ - - not sure what the psychology of that might be… and then climbed the forest path back to the hotel.  Our plans for the evening include repacking, reading, chilling - - and ordering room service if necessary!

Day 36 Milford Sound to Queenstown


Day 36 Milford Sound to Queenstown

Another exhausting day….We awoke at 6:30 for our onboard breakfast and then joined our fellow passengers on deck for a cruise out of Milford Sound onto the rolling Tasman Sea. The ship’s nature guide regaled us with stories of explorers (Captain Cook sailed right by the entrance to Milford Sound twice without ever noticing it…), Maoris (There is a legend that the biting sandflies – the only creatures to spoil the absolute perfection of the place were sent by the gods to ensure that people didn’t stand and stare but moved on with their work…), geology and wildlife.  We saw seabirds such as shearwaters and black-backed gulls and a large group of New Zealand fur seals – the young males – playing and sunning themselves on the rocks.  The young males are kicked out of the colony and stay in the relative safety of Milford Sound until maturity, when they return to the colony to fight for their place in the hierarchy.  We saw one seal climb several metres straight up a slippery vertical rock – and another tiny pup try and try again to climb up a much smaller crag….very cute, poor thing….still a bit of growing to do…..

We cruised back up the sound…fewer waterfalls today, but patches of blue sky between the misty peaks…under the waterfall again and smoothly into dock where Nicole was waiting for us to drive us back up the Milford Highway.

We passed the ‘Chasm’ waterfall again and drove through thick fog to the Homer Tunnel. Once through the tunnel, the sky suddenly cleared to brilliant sunshine – and we photographed many of the same places of yesterday, now sparkling in the sun.  We stopped again at Macpherson Glacier….and then at Falls Creek – where Nicole decided to jump off the falls….”It has to be done,” she said – we were a tad worried for her as we do need her for the rest of the trip…but she had done it many times as a child and was quite determined.  Several other buses stopped to view the falls, so she had something of an audience as she jumped in, swam to the side and safely climbed out….It was a bit colder than she remembered though…she said it knocked the breath out of her……

We stopped at ‘The Divide’ to make the trek to Key Summit - - - a 3 hour walk including a climb of 300 metres for fantastic views….another of the more challenging walks of the trip…and then took the hour-long nature walk at the summit, stopping for lunch halfway around.  We saw a beautiful moss garden – and a rare Kaka bird…and ran into another Adventure South group at the top to compare notes…..

The rest of the drive to Queenstown – through Te Anau, Mossburn, Garston and Kingston passed uneventfully….though the sun streaming through the windows made it much hotter and seem much longer than the trip out yesterday…..
Nicole gave us a ‘turkey tour’ of the very busy town…..so much civilisation after the wilderness of the last few days….and took us to our accommodation for the next two nights.  It’s quite a ways out of town….we were told a 15 minute walk….but I think at least double that and halfway up a mountain (thank goodness there’s a shuttle bus).  Tomorrow is a free day in Queenstown to sample some of the touristy delights…..it is supposed to be our chance to bungy jump, go whitewater rafting, try river surfing or sky diving….but I think we are going to have a rest day instead…This trip has been a bit full on….and I have more than a little laundry to do!

Day 35 Wanaka to Milford Sound


Day 35 Wanaka to Milford Sound

We breakfasted at the Cherry May café and set off on what was billed as a ‘driving day’ with a short, but challenging walk – but the heavy rain meant that Nicole changed the ‘short’ walk into a number of ‘short, short’ easy walks – leaving the more challenging one for tomorrow when predictions are for better weather. Nicole – and every Kiwi we met today – told us how lucky we were that it was raining…..  We eventually found out why….as we reached the Milford Highway and Homer tunnel, temporary waterfalls sprang into life, cascading hundreds of metres in thin ribbons of white threaded through the mountain vegetation.  It was equally spectacular in the fjord itself….

Our drive from Wanaka was filled with notable sights….colourful lupins (planted by colonists and later by tourists) along the roadsides and rivers, the beginning of a tent city at the location of the famous ‘Rhythm and Alps’ music festival which begins in a few days, the famous, historical Cardrona pub from the Speight beer adverts, cyclists fighting the rain and hills on their way to or from Queenstown, Arrowtown (a historical and touristy goldmining town), the Remarkables Mountains, filmed as the fiery mountains (Ered Lithiue) in Lord of the Rings (every time I think we’ve finished the LotR tour, another film set pops up….apparently there were 350 of them….), Garston (NZ’s most inland village) and the Kingston Flyer.(a working steam train – just for tourists, of course).

We actually stopped in Mossburn – the deer capital of NZ.  Red deer and wapiti were gifted to NZ by Theodore Roosevelt in the early 1900s for hunting but – as with most introduced species – became a pest…and in the 1960s it was decided to farm them.  So….a number of well-paid, brave (and foolhardy????) ‘cowboys’ jumped off the  skids of helicopters onto the backs of stags and wrestled them to the ground, capturing them to be transported to stations around Mossburn.  This story caused much hilarity on our bus as we imagined the meeting where it was decided that this was a good idea…. (Eventually it was decided that dropping nets might be a bit less risky..) 

Our lunch stop was at Te Anau, the gateway to ‘Fiordland’. There were some lovely cafes and shops and a beautiful lakeside.  We didn’t have time to do the cruise to the famous glow-worm caves…our intimate adventure at Punaikai will have to suffice for that….

Back on the bus, we passed Charteris station in Te Anau Downs – a huge station, made up of the parcels of land given to WW1 vets on their return from war after the vets gave up trying to farm land so far from everything with no roads….then   followed the Eglington River (world famous for fly-fishing, apparently) for a couple of hours, then stopped at Knob’s Flat for the ‘last flush toilets until Milford’ and to find out about the wildlife in the national park.  The pekapeka bat is New Zealand’s only native land-based mammal – and this is one of the only places they are likely to be seen….but only at night – so we’re not likely to see them here either.                   

We took the Lake Gunn walk in the rain….120 different types of moss, 3 types of beech, very unusual burls or galls and a plant called ‘stinkwood’ that certainly lived up to its name…..The lake was named for a farmer that had to walk his cows to market eight days from his station, along this lake with his dog Fergus….and who drowned with his dog one time when there was a flash flood…..The bodies were apparently found this time….but still another tragic story.

 We drove across ‘the Divide’ so back to the West Coast….along a section of road with 40 avalanche chutes….quite often closed in winter – no surprise… to a beautiful series of waterfalls, first at Falls Creek and then  beneath the huge MacPherson glacier, just before the Homer Tunnel.  We got out in the rain to photograph the beautiful scene and were rewarded by the additional sight of 2 cheeky kea birds, raising their green outer wings to show off the brilliant red/orange underneath.

The Homer Tunnel took 10 years to build – spread over 18years because the build was interrupted by WW2.  It was dug through 1.2km of solid granite – even dynamite explosions only moved it forward 30 cm at a time…. It is now the location of a naked race on every April 1st….our guide, Nicole, came second last year…..

We then drove down to the edge of Milford Sound….arriving at 4:10 with boarding time for our cruise at 4:20….Nicole is a master of timing…..even fully clothed…..

We boarded the Milford Wanderer for our overnight cruise and were immediately served a delicious potato and leek soup.  I am not generally a great fan of cruises….there isn’t a lot to do so they stuff you with food and drink, but this was better than most…  We cruised the fjord, looking at the temporary waterfalls, impressive mountain walls and went under Stirling falls – the largest of the permanent falls.  We then got into a tender for a guided nature cruise closer to shore. There was also an option to jump from the boat and go for a swim…..but that was just too cold.

It is a particularly interesting bit of coastline because the tannin-filled freshwater from the high mountains forms a layer on top of the salty seawater…..fooling deepsea life into thinking it belongs.  It is one of the few places on earth where black coral grows at a level where it can be seen.  There is an underwater observatory in the sound….but it was closed by the time we got there….

Anyway, a lovely dinner and pleasant evening, moored beneath Mitre Mountain – so named because the summit resembles a bishop’s hat….and a good night’s sleep, gently rocking in the sheltered cove…..

Thursday, 25 December 2014

Day 34 Wanaka


Day 34 Wanaka

Whilst you were all sleeping off Christmas and planning what to but in the Boxing Day sales, we were up for breakfast by 8 (a lie-in for us…to give poor Nicole time to make us breakfast as the hotel doesn’t supply it…) and off for a fantastic jet boat ride up the braided channels of the Matukituki river into Mt Aspiring National Park.  We saw the hanging glaciers of Mount Avalanche, a white heron, a paradise duck (without her partner….Apparently they mate for life and if the female dies, the male stays alone…if the male dies, though, the female looks for a new mate…..Nicole says the one we saw is probably a ‘hussy’…) and we went beneath yet another lord of the rings set – this time we passed by Amon Sul – or the watchtower of weathertop – Rob loved it – he can be such a nerd!- anyway then we took a 50 minute walk through beautiful beech forest in the national park….but the highlight was the boat itself….amazingly smooth ride over rapids and in only 6 inches of water over a rocky bed at a very good speed. Of course, our ‘captain’ James spun it a few times and we got wet…..but nevertheless, it was great….Rob said that he wants one of those for next Christmas!

After the boat ride and forest walk, a couple of the group returned to town….not willing to tackle what is reputedly the second toughest trek on our tour.  Rob and I were each hoping the other would back out but we chickened out of chickening out so on we went.  It was a beautiful day – mid 20s and sunny – unlike when we tackled the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – so we actually enjoyed most of the walk…. We circled Diamond Lake and then climbed to a viewpoint over the lake….but that was just the start.  We zigzagged back and forth over rocky crags, trudged up grassy goat tracks and clambered around boulders until nearly two hours later, ‘glowing’ profusely and out of breath, we reached the summit of Rocky Mountain – for a spectacular  view over the Matukitiki river valley – where we had been boating in the morning – and Lake Wanaka with its islands and surrounding glacial peaks. One of the islands (sorry, I’ve forgotten its name) has a lake on it….so there is a lake on an island in a lake on an island…..Nicole spent many summers in this area as a child – she and her family would take their boat to that island and climb up to the lake.  We decided to pass on that experience as we still had about 5 kilometres to go just to get back to the bus….
We removed our boots with relief and had a much-needed shower. Rob collapsed on the bed while I went out to buy some food for dinner in.  We ate in front of Masterchef, packed up for tomorrow’s adventures and fell into bed exhausted at not long after 9:00…… 

Day 33 Fox Glacier and the Haast Pass


Day 33 Fox Glacier and the Haast Pass
Christmas morning….We mustered (common Kiwi-speak) at seven for a pre-breakfast walk around Lake Matheson, the ‘reflecting’ lake, for spectacular views of Mt Cook before any tour buses arrived…It was a lovely walk with gentle undulations along a forested path with viewpoints at regular intervals.  In Maori, Mt Cook’s name means ‘Cloud Piercer’ and that is exactly what she was doing today….We returned to our hotel for breakfast and to wave off Alex, the one member of our group who decided to risk the helicopter ride over the glaciers. (As Rob says, “I don’t like cable cars….and a helicopter is just a cable car without the cables……”) After breakfast, we hiked up to the terminal of Fox glacier.  It is lovely and blue….just as a glacier should be….but retreating every year and not likely to last much more than another 20 years. Nicole, our guide, showed us where the terminal had been last year…at least two hundred metres further down the valley.  The path is changed annually to take tourists as close as is safe….there have been a number of tragedies involving those who have tried to go even closer….  Alex joined us as we climbed back down, reporting magical scenes from above….she does have some lovely photos….

We then loaded up the bus – Nicole in her light-up Santa hat and my Christmas tree swinging in the windscreen - and followed route 6 south again, stopping at the lovely beach at Bruce Bay for lunch, the viewing area at Knight’s Point  (Before the road was built in the 1960s, this is where cattle destined for the local stations swam ashore…), Thunder Creek Falls (28 metres into a crystal clear stream, where we filled our water bottles) and Haast Gates rapids – before finally navigating the pass itself and hearing more scare stories of people maimed and killed…..Rob has informed Nicole that she really needs to learn some stories that don’t end “..and the bodies were never found…”.

Back on what is known as the ‘East Coast’ we passed glacial lakes, sheep and deer stations and tiny tourist towns as we wended our way to Wanaka – where we will stay for two nights.  Nearly everything in the town was closed for Christmas Day, so Nicole cooked us a traditional New Zealand Christmas meal….really sweet of her…and very good, too….turkey, stuffing, Maori sweet potatoes, salads and the ‘must-have’ dessert…Pavlova with fresh fruit.  It was a fun evening…completed with Secret Santa presents and sparkling wine….Also a lie-in tomorrow – breakfast isn’t until 8:00!

Tuesday, 23 December 2014

Day 32 Hokitika, Lake Mapounka and Franz Josef


Day 32 Hokitika, Lake Mapounka and Franz Josef

It was Christmas Eve – though it was difficult to tell here….We drove south through Greytown, the largest town in the area and across a shared rail and road bridge….Now this didn’t sound odd until we realised that the railway runs down the middle of the single track road right across the bridge – sharing the same space as the cars – not next to it, right along with it…..and we think level crossings are dangerous!  Just before the bride was also the strangest mailbox I’ve ever seen…it was made from a microwave oven….whatever…

It was quite a beautiful drive, the Southern Alps to our left, winding roads crossing rivers pastel blue with glacial ‘flower’ and chalky river beaches.  We went through Ross – the gold mining centre - and stopped for morning coffee at Hokitika – the greenstone centre, exploring the various shops and galleries.

We drove on, then, past the lagoon at Okarito – a wetlands conservation area – and the Kotuku (white heron) sanctuary to the edge of Lake Mapounka. It was a perfect day – 22 degrees and bright sunshine….we could see the Franz Josef glacier in the distance. We ate our lunch on the dock and then 3 of us went on a guided kayak tour around the lake
and into a creek that ran into the Kiwi reserve.  Kiwis are nocturnal, so there was no chance of seeing them…..but we did see a magnificent white heron….obviously an escapee from the sanctuary we had passed….  We also tried a bit of ‘bush tucker’ – a very peppery leaf that the Maori use as a seasoning in hangi cooking.  Our guide, Mike, was a Canadian….he wore a Santa hat and played the Michael Buble Christmas album in his van….so a little bit Christmassy…..

Kayaking here was a little different…..We wore ‘splash aprons’ for a start….so didn’t even get wet….and the kayaks have rudders that are worked with pedals.  Rob and I went in a 2-man kayak so he had to steer….not an easy task….and we had to work as a team, paddling at the same pace on the same sides.  Once we got the hang of it all, we did really well and 3 hours passed in a flash.  I have a feeling our arms will be aching tomorrow…

We met up with the rest of the group (who had hiked to a viewpoint to see the Franz Josef glacier) in Franz Josef town.  We had a coffee and explored the shops a bit more….Nicole had bought a Santa hat to match the other guides, so she drove us to our Christmas Eve lodgings beneath Fox Glacier with the beginnings of some Christmas cheer. Rob began whistling Christmas carols that didn’t go down as well…hopefully he can restrain himself slightly tomorrow on our Christmas day glacier hikes!